Tuesday, 17 April 2018

Day 3: Halong Bay to Hanoi to Lao Cai


After a sleep on the boat, (and an early morning Tai-Chi class which we didn't make), it was anchors up and full steam ahead between and past some more of the 1969 islands in Halong Bay. They are truly spectacular and we had no idea there were so many of them. Halong Bay is a vast area (Wikipedia says 1500 km2) and is part of Vietnam but adjacent to China (Hainan), so Vietnam has to remain vigilant to ensure it doesn't become 'disputed territory' in the future. Of course, just around the corner and along a bit is the South China Sea including the Spratly Islands. Say no more!



The Halong Bay islands are just to the east of Hai Phong on the map above and the larger scale map below. (which is still not large enough to show the multiple islands. Check Google maps!)




Stopped at Sung Sot island which boasts three very large limestone caves with reasonable decoration. And did I mention there were many steps... again.



As with the region, there is rapid infrastructure development going on here. Piers and walkways are very substantial and extensions are underway.











The third cave was very large but a pleasant stroll.










Lunch was onboard, then we cruised back to the dock, so the crew could do the housekeeping on the boat, settle new guests and do it all again.






In the calm light of day, any concerns about 'over-tourism' are softened by an appreciation of just how big the area is - big enough to absorb the current level of tourism, but I guess the day will come when the issue will have to be considered.

Meanwhile, we returned to Hanoi by bus and visited the 'Temple of Literature', the first university in Vietnam (perhaps even Asia, given it was built in 1070) based on the philosophy and ideas of Confucius.





Perhaps the population was a little shorter back in the 1000s.






I thought it was litter on the roof, but no! Just a few random bank notes obviously thrown there in search of good luck. Then again, they might be the fake, paper money one can buy at the market for the purpose of pleasing the spirits.









Then the adventure started! We caught the train to Lao Cai in the Highlands to the NW of Hanoi and from there we had to drive to Sapa. The train was a little less glamorous and less luxurious than we might be accustomed to, but the experience was worth it.

Just watch for trains as you head for platform 3!  No under-passes or over-passes here!



The cabins were designated as 'air-conditioned, soft-sleeper' which translated to fixed bunks with a pillow and doona supplied. Four persons per cabin and toilets at each end of the carriage, but rather difficult to use in the mornings....  Certainly no showers etc, but everybody is in the same situation.



... and did I mention the bunks are not very long? Oh well...put up with it! Get over it!



Early morning arrival in Sapa was at about 6am. As you can see, nothing flash about the platforms. The train goes through quite a climb in its trek from Hanoi to Lao Cai, something like 1500 metres, so it was rather slow but understandable under the conditions.




Breakfast was organised at a nearby hotel (The photo below is from the hotel dining room, looking back at the station) and then we were onto a bus to continue the climb into the highlands to Sapa.




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